Although Croatian wines have only recently begun to show itself on the global map with its powerful reds in the South and expressive whites to the North, do not mistake it for a New World wine region; Croatia has a wine history spanning approximately 2500 years, dating back to the Illyrians.
This history runs deep in the veins of the winemakers of today, many of which have been producing quality wines for generations. Before starting my Pelješac wine route in January, I hopped onto the Peninsula to get a sneak peak and insight into the wine history of this specific wine region; there I met with a 12th generation vintner so I could pick her brain.
The Illyrians ruled Pelješac 2500 years ago and in the Illyrian cave in Nakovanj near the Northern tip of the Peninsula, ceramic wine glasses handed to the Illyrians by the Greeks as a payment to pass the channel between Pelješac and Korčula, have been found. It is therefore believed, that wine was produced and consumed on the Peninsula at this time.
Eventually of course, the Roman Empire conquered the Illyrian army headed by Queen Teuta and a more formal wine culture began to take shape. This was evident by the many Roman Villa Rusticas which were located in areas ideal for wine growing. A Villa Rustica was a country house built for the upper class; these were largely self-sustained with their own olive groves and vineyards so they could serve the needs of social gatherings. On Pelješac, Villa Rusticas are found in Dingač, Postup, Perna, Viganj, Trstenik, and Žuljana; some of the most recognized wine producing regions in Croatia to date.
When the Slavs overcame the Romans in the 7th century, they adopted the rich wine culture of their predecessors. Many rulers governed the Peninsula until the Dubrovnik Republic bought it in 1333 from Tsar Dušan's Serbian Empire and ruled the region until 1806. During this time, wine production declined and the main industry of Pelješac was wheat growing. In the year thereafter when Napoleon was in power, many vines were planted and the Methode Cap Classique (the method in which Champagne is produced) was introduced.
Skip a few years to 1867 when the Austro-Hungarian Empire governed Croatia, Emperor Franz Joseph's exclusive wine list included the red wines from Dingač, Pelješac and Tokaji, Hungary. These two wines were identified as the most valuable. Additionally, wines from Pelješac were exported to France where the phylloxera pest had exterminated the vineyards and wine industry.
Years later, phylloxera hit the vineyards of Croatia and the wine industry took a massive dive. The Dalmatian wine growers left their land and immigrated to America and New Zealand (where they pioneered wine making).
After recovering from phylloxera, between WWI and WWII, Croatia's wine industry was in line with
France and Italy in terms of equipment, vinification and vitification methods. As communism stepped in after WWII, the market closed, the wine industry experienced no growth, and cooperatives paid
growers based on quantity rather than quality. This era however, also brought something good to the
industry by introducting appellation laws (Controlled Designation of Origin) of which the first two were Dingač (1961) and Postup (1964); both prominent wine regions of Pelješac.
Fast forward to after the Balkan War. Between 1995 and 2002 was a time of recovery for the country
and its wine industry, where the country got an opportunity to refocus its efforts on quality wines; something the country can proudly say they are succeeding in.
After learning about this long blurb of history, I am so excited to soon be experiencing the Pelješac
wine route, one swirl at a time.
